1955 Chevy - Falfa's '55 from the movie "American Graffiti"

This photo shows the Box Art for the 1955 Chevy Coupe Skips Fiesta Drive-In Series 1955 Chevy Coupe Skip's Fiesta Drive-In Series on Scalemates,

As of September 30, 2026, this kit will not be used because some of the parts, in particular the small parts, are so full of flash and injector pin marks that after cleaning them there would be no part left. The shocks had injector pin marks that went almost all the way through the part. The next photo is of the Atlantis version of the kit. The two kits are identical and the parts in the Atlantis version are much better. They are still loaded with flash and ton's of injector pin marks, but at least they can be cleaned without destroying the part.

This photo shows the Box Art for the 1955 Chevy Bel-Air Atlantis version 1955 Chevy Bel-Air Atlantis version on Scalemates.

As of September 30, 2026, parts from this kit will be used because some of the parts, in particular the small parts, in the Skip's Fiesta Drive-In Series are so full of flash and injector pin marks, that after cleaning them there would be no part left. The two kits are identical, however; the parts in the Atlantis version are much cleaner. They are still loaded with flash and ton's of injector pin marks, but at least they can be cleaned without destroying the part.

The chrome tree.

Body from the Atlantis kit.

Various Body Parts in the Sprue.

Sprue #02 - More Parts

Sprue #03 - More Parts

Sprue *04 - More Parts

Sprue #05 - More Parts

Sprue #06 - More Parts

Clear Parts

Kit Tires - Most Likely Will Not Be Used

3d Printed Wheels to be Used. Falfa's '55 had chrome steel wheels and these 3D printed wheels should accommodate that look.

3D Printed Chevy 427 Big Block on the Sprue.

'55 Chevy Flip Nose body. This body needed a ton of sanding. There were swirl marks on the roof and trunk that could be felt. After sanding, the swirls cannot be felt; however, I'll see if it needs more sanding after primer is applied.

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The parts that will most likely be used to complete the build of Falfa's '55.

MCV Chevy Big Block 427 is being built. I assembled the parts that I planned would be the same color. My original plan was for the block, heads, oil pan and water pump to be motor orange, however; since then, I changed my mind about the engine colors and am planning to paint it aluminum and black. Therefore, I'll be hand painting a lot of the engine.

1. Photo 'A' shows the block with the heads cemented in place. My plan was to paint that assembly engine orange. The transmission was, and still will be painted aluminum, and the intakes will also be painted aluminum. However, at this writing I changed my mind and will be painting the block semi gloss black and the heads and oil pan aluminum.
2. Photo 'B' shows the under side of the engine with the oil pan cemented in place. It also shows the valve covers. The valve covers will be in gloss black.
3. Photo 'C' shows for cylinders that I had no idea what they were or where they were to go. I contacted Matthew at MCV and he told me they are to allow easy alignment of the heads to the block by inserting them into the cylinders. Well...that ship sailed.

MCV 3D Printed Tires and Wheels. The tires will be painted with Tamiya rubber black and the wheels will be painted chrome.

To accommodate the flip nose, the front of the frame was trimmed 10mm. The 10mm will give the nose clearance to flip forward.

As of this photo I have starting build the MCV 427 Chevy Big Block and it is in primer and drying. To test the engine fit in the engine compartment after trimming the frame 10mm, I built the kit 409 engine. The kit 409 engine is larger than the 427 and if it fits in the engine compartment, the 427 should also fit.

I drilled 2mm holes in the front of each frame extension and then cut and installed 2mm styrene rod to act as hinge pins for the flip nose.

I'm experimenting with some different hinge designs. These are made from a 0.25 inch square rod stock. I cut one piece 2mm thick and another, 0.25 inches thick. I then drilled a 2.5mm hole in the center of each block. After drilling the hole(s) I glued a piece of 2mm x 1mm styrene to the block, extending to a length that can be glued to the flip nose.

I'm holding the experimental hinge mechanism on the hinge pins and using Elmer's white glue to glue them to the flip nose. I let the white glue cure for 24-hours. The hinge worked well, one time, then the white glue bond broke. The white glue did not adhere to whatever material the flip nose is made. The glue literally fell off the plastic surface.