Ernie Irvin Kodak Lumina
First Build in More than 50-Years

This is a photo of the completed build superimposed on a tiled race garage.

I started this project by painting the engine parts. Thanks to YouTube I learned that many builders stick small parts to tape for spraying. It works great. I'm still learning how to use an airbrush, so this was a good lesson in the spray pattern and how the brush and the objects need to be moved around to get fully coated. I also did some traditional brush painting on the engine.

More engine parts being painted.

More engine parts being painted.

I started assembling the engine. Being from the "Old School" I scrapped the paint from the gluing surfaces before applying the glue using Testors liquid glue. I see so many modelers online that do not remove paint from the gluing surfaces and using plastic cement. I'm not sure how that glue holds the parts together because the glue actually melts the styrene together, and it won't do that if the surface is painted. I also see modelers using super glue, but I'm not sold on that glue for model parts, "yet". So... as of this writing, I'm still using plastic cement; however, I could change my mind as I get further back into the hobby.

Scrapping paint, gluing and doing some brush painting detailing and touch-up.

Assembling the engine.

Assembling the engine.

Started assembling the engine.

I added the alternator and the distributor cap. I'm not going to wire the engine on this build. I just want to get back in the groove. Looking back, I should have stripped the chrome from the alternator and painted it...hind sight is 20-20.

I added the alternator and the distributor cap. I'm not going to wire the engine on this build. I just want to get back in the groove. Looking back, I should have stripped the chrome from the alternator and painted it...hind sight is 20-20.

Added the valve covers and oil breathers.

Added valve covers and oil breathers. The chrome on the heat shield, on the left side of the engine was wrinkled from the box. I was trying to figure out how to fix it, but then I thought, no...I'll leave it like that because it shows that it was very hot at one time.

Installed the air cleaner.

Installed the air cleaner. Finished engine.

Installed the air cleaner. Finished engine.

Installed the air cleaner. Finished engine.

I airbrushed the chassis in Testors Model Master FS17038 Gloss Black. In hind sight, I wish I would have done it in Flat Black or Semi-Gloss Black. The seat was mounted and detailed to show safety belts and buckles, (I guess I should not have drank two cups of coffee before trying to do detail painting). The shifter and fuel cell were also detailed and mounted.

I airbrushed the chassis in Testors Model Master FS17038 Gloss Black. In hind sight, I wish I would have done it in Flat Black or Semi-Gloss Black. The seat was mounted and detailed to show safety belts and buckles, (I guess I should not have drank two cups of coffee before trying to do detail painting). The shifter and fuel cell were also detailed and mounted.

The fire extinguisher was detailed and installed.

The fire extinguisher detailed and installed

I did the radiator in Tamiya XF-16 Flat Aluminum and used Tamiya Black Panel Liner wash to show some depth. There was a deep scratch on the radiator out of the box. I wasn't sure how to fix it, so I decided to keep it that way and highlight it to show use or possible track damage.

View of engine from the interior tub

The upper radiator hose was installed. I painted it in Tamiya XF-16 Flat Aluminum. I didn't know about after market radiator hoses at the time of this build or I would have used one.

The air cleaner decal was added to the air cleaner.

Another view of the installed engine. As stated earlier, the chrome on the heat shield is wrinkled and at the time, I didn't know how to fix it. Since this build I know how to fix this type of problem. So...for this build I left it alone and depicted as heat damage.

This photo shows that I'm starting to install the roll cage and have the sides clamped in position while the glue dries.

Another view of the roll cage being installed.

Installing the roll cage.

The rod of sprue sticking through the roll cage was inserted to support the upper portion of the cage while the glue is set-up.

I had problems with the rear support pipes and had to do one at a time and then clamp.

I had problems with the rear support pipes and had to do one at a time and then clamp.

I had problems with the rear support pipes and had to do one at a time and then clamp.

I had problems with the rear support pipes and had to do one at a time and then clamp.

The roll cage is finished

The roll cage is finished

Roll cage is finished and front & rear decks were painted and installed.

The oil cooler is installed.

The dashboard is detailed, steering wheel and rear view mirror are installed.

The dashboard is detailed, steering wheel and rear view mirror are installed.

The dashboard is detailed, steering wheel and rear view mirror are installed.

The brake discs are in the spray booth and being painted.

Painted and installing the front coil springs

I started detailing the front brake rotors.

The steering box was painted and installed.

I airbrushed the body with Model Master 13538 Chrome Yellow. I have been experimenting with different yellowish paints to find one that matches the Kodak yellow. Returning to the hobby and being a "green horn", I didn't want to mix a color. I finally found that Testors Model Master 13538 Chrome Yellow was a fairly close match.

I airbrushed the body with Model Master 13538 Chrome Yellow. I have been experimenting with different yellowish paints to find one that matches the Kodak yellow. Returning to the hobby and being a "green horn", I didn't want to mix a color. I finally found that Testors Model Master 13538 Chrome Yellow was a fairly close match.

I airbrushed the trunk lid, hood and rear bumper with the Model Master Chrome Yellow. I had a run along one edge of the trunk lid, and I noticed some orange peeling.

I was devastated over the run and the orange peeling, but I used it to my benefit to learn why the paint ran and why it orange peeled, and then, how to fix it.

I had, from the beginning, decided to make a show car version; therefore, I painted the wheels black. I didn't think I was steady enough to white letter the Good Year on the tires.

The front suspension is installed.

The front brake rotors and the shocks are installed.

The front brake rotors and the shocks are installed.

The rear coil springs are installed, but not glued. I found the installation of the rear suspension to be difficult, especially to get the shocks put in place.

Assembling the rear axle and suspension.

Assembling the rear axle and suspension.

Assembling the rear axle and suspension.

I have the rear suspension assembled and installed.

The chassis is finished.

The body is ready to be placed onto the chassis.

The body has some chips and orange peel. I learned some methods to fix these problems and will be attempting to fix them.

I did some touchup on the chipped areas of the body even though they were in area's that would not be seen. I then lightly wet sanded the body in an attempt to remove the orange peeling. It did not remove all of it. I stopped the sanding because I was afraid of burning through to the primer.

I'm sure the orange peeling was caused by:

• Not thinning the paint.
  
  
• Holding the airbrush too far away from the model and having the paint dry before reaching the surface of the model.
  
  
• Moving the airbrush a-bit to fast

I'm not sure about that last bullet point.

I did some touchup on the chipped areas of the body even though they were in area's that would not be seen. I then lightly wet sanded the body in an attempt to remove the orange peeling. It did not remove all of it. I stopped the sanding because I was afraid of burning through to the primer.

I'm sure the orange peeling was caused by:

• Not thinning the paint.
  
  
• Holding the airbrush too far away from the model and having the paint dry before reaching the surface of the model.
  
  
• Moving the airbrush a-bit to fast

I'm not sure about that last bullet point.

I installed the fuel filler tube and the fuel cell vent.

I installed the glass. I used a black Sharpie to color the support bars on the glass.

I installed the glass. I used a black Sharpie to color the support bars on the glass.

I installed the glass. I used a black Sharpie to color the support bars on the glass.

I installed the exhaust pipes.

I took this photo from the right side window looking into the interior. It didn't get very good, but I still thought it was a really neat shot.

I took this photo from the right side window looking into the interior. It didn't get very good, but I still thought it was a really neat shot.

After the body was installed, I started installing the decals. It has been a long time since I did decals and had never used Micro Sol and Micro Set; however, I found it quite easy; easier than I remember it being.

Installing decals

Installing decals.

Installing decals.

While installing the decals, the 'L' on the LUMINA tore. I later fixed it with a-bit of black paint.

After the decals were installed and given time to dry, I put a coat of Krylon Crystal Clear on the entire body, the hood and the trunk lid.

After the decals were installed and given time to dry, I put a coat of Krylon Crystal Clear on the entire body, the hood and the trunk lid.

After the decals were installed and given time to dry, I put a coat of Krylon Crystal Clear on the entire body, the hood and the trunk lid.

The build is finished and setting on the bench. Years ago I had slid something on the bench that left a black mark. I didn't really notice until after taking the picture, but I think it looks like a tire mark.

Here is the Ernie Irvin Kodak Lumina on the track. I found a picture on the web, in an area licensed under Creative Commons for reuse and modification, of a track with grandstands in the distance. I then superimposed the photo of the car onto the track image. It's not very good, but I'm new to all of this stuff; so please give me a break.

The image you see was done using Gimp GNU Photo Manipulation Software Gimp is an open source free photo editor similar to Adobe Photoshop.