The following are problems and issues I found with the
AMT 1941 Plymouth 4-Passenger Coupe and how I fixed
them or modified the kit. When I started building this
kit I wasn't thinking that I might want to keep track of
issues and problems because all kits have "something";
it's part of model building. However, there were so many
problems and issues with this kit I started keeping track
of them. Because I started keeping track during the
build, I don't have pictures of most of what I found and
what I did to fix it, but I will do my best to describe
what I found and what I did to fix it.
The back of the front seat did not fit well.
The back of the front seat was not quite wide enough and
not quite tall enough to fit the front seat. It required
a-bit of fill to make it look like it was part of the
the front seat. As a modeler I understand having
to putty areas, but this part was WAY out of
whack.
There is so much flash on the steering column that
cleaning it all would have destroyed the column.
There was so much flash on the steering column that
all I could do was take some of the sharp edges off,
otherwise there wouldn't have been a steering column
left. The other thing I could have done was make my
own steering column, but because it's very hard to
see inside the cab and actually see the steering
column, I left if as is.
Injector pin marks on the back set and cab floor
The back seat has two large injector pin marks, one
on each seat cushion. To remove them, destroyed the
seat pattern, and to not remove them looked like there
had been buckets setting on the seat that left a
huge mark where they were setting. I sanded them
off and than used a scribe and a needle to put
random marks on the sanded areas in an attempt to
make it look like cloth. I could have made a
blanket to lay on the back seat, but that's not
how a car coming off the assembly line would have
looked.
Window cranks and inside door handles are molded in and
barely visible
The interior tub needs a ton of work. The window
cranks and inside door handles were just very
thin lines molded into the door panels. There was
barely enough detail to paint them to at least
give an illusion of them being there. The next
time I build this kit I'll try to find after market
cranks and handles, kit bash another kit, or make my
own. At this point even making my own would have been
better than the molded ones, but I left them and used
a #00 brush and Tamiya X-11 Chrome Silver to
paint them.
Arm rests are molded in and barely visible
The arm rests looked more like there was a vary small
glob of flash than an arm rest. I barely touched it with
a #00 brush and some brown paint in an attempt to show
them. The next time I'll use some styrene and make my
own.
The front of the body and front body panel are warped
requiring a ton of work
The front body panel was slightly warped. What made it
worse, was that the fender alignment mark on the body
fender on the right side was not in the correct location.
Since this mark is molded into the fender, either the
mold is defective or the molding process had a hiccup.
To fix this I filed off the alignment tab only to find
that the fender was also warped. It wasn't bad enough
to have to heat and bend, so I used a thick, slow setting
glue, put the front panel in place and then bent and
clamped the finders to match the front panel. I let the
glue set for well over 24-hours and then started
sanding and filing. I lost the panel lines so I then
used a Tamiya fine line engraving tool to scribe the
panel lines back into existence. While scribing, there
were voids in the glue line, therefore I filled the
lines with glue, let it set and scribed them again. I
did this until I had smooth panel lines between the
front panel and the fenders. The photo in Figure 1
show this in progress.
"Fig 1 - Front Body Panel"
Refer to Figure 2 for a view of the rear suspension as
the instructions instruct us to build it. That shown...
The upper mount for the rear shocks are totally
wrong, and not only are the mounts wrong, the mounting
location is wrong. The kit has one end of the shock
mounting on a leaf spring. I'm sure that can't be
correct and doing some research, it's not correct. The
shock should be mounted to the rear axle. I'm not a
suspension guy, but even I know that the shock should
be independent of the leaf spring. When I came to this
realization, I already had the shocks modified and
mounted.
The other thing that is not accurate on the rear
suspension are the leaf springs. There should be mounting
bushing's on each end of the spring as shown in the
inset image in Figure 3. The inset image is of an actual
1941 Plymouth leaf spring. As with the shocks, I already
had the springs mounted before I realized the bushing's
were not provided. Adding bushing's would have been very
easy by using some Evergreen 0.093"/2.36mm tubing.
Fig 2 - Rear Suspension Out of BoxFig 3 - New Rear Shock Mount
The front suspension had one mold problem in that one
of the coil springs had a an indentation that looked like
it could have been a bubble that burst, leaving a creator
behind. I did not fix it because I rotated the spring so
that it can't be seen.
The ignition coil that came with the kit was molded into
the sprue to the extent that removing it would have
destroyed it. It didn't matter, because it was so small
and so not to scale that I wouldn't have used it anyway.
I used an aftermarket coil from Detail Master; DM-3052.
The DM-3052, when mounted on the firewall in the correct
location it is too long and interferes with the
engine. To fix this I used a #43 drill (0.089"/≅2.25mm
or 2.3mm) and drilled through the firewall. This drill
size makes a compression fit for the aftermarket coil.
I than pushed the coil into the firewall and allowed
some of it to protrude out of the back side. see
Figure 4. The protrusion through the firewall will not
be seen because it is covered up by the interior tub. I
then painted the coil and wired it to the distributor.
Fig 4 - Aftermarket Coil Mounted in Firewall
I had neglected to mount the windshield center post
before painting the body. Normally this should not be
problem. According to the instructions, it looks like
the post should be glued to the body; however, there
is no place on the body to key the divider, or to mark
the center point. That's Okay and not a problem, these
points can be easily determined. I wanted to put a small
notch in the body on the top and bottom to hold the
divider in place, but the divider is not long enough to
allow for that. That again is Okay and I could have just
made my own divider out of a small strip of styrene, but
I didn't. Figure 5 shows that I applied some tape to the
windshield to prevent it from getting any glue on it and
then taped the windshield into the body. I then
positioned the divider and taped it in location. Once in
position I applied a small amount of glue on top and
bottom. When the glue dried, the divider held for a
short time, but fell out. I ended up gluing the divider
directly to the windshield using some canopy glue, the
very thing I did not want to do.
Fig 5 - Taping the Windshield Center Divider in Place
The antenna had so much flash, there would be no antenna
left after cleaning. I did not use the antenna. I could
have easily made an antenna using a small piece of soft
drawn bus wire, but I like the way the car looks without
the antenna.
The body needs to be drilled out to accept the gas cap;
not shown on the instruction sheet. If the body is not
drilled out to accept the gas cap, the cap looks like a
chrome mushroom growing out of the body.
The tail lights, rear deck handle, rear license plate
holder, side mirrors should be pinned. Figure 6 shows
how I pinned the rear deck handle. The pin is a piece
of soft drawn bus wire and will be trimmed when the
glue dries. I did not pin the other body parts, but I
should have. The left tail light rotated slightly as
the glue dried. If I would have pinned it, that
rotation would not have happened. The parts are very
small and pinning will require pins with a diameter
of approximately a 26 AWG (American Wire Gage) wire.
The diameter of a 26 AWG wire is 0.0159"/0.4049mm. The
parts can be drilled with a #78 drill (0.0160"/0.4064mm)
or a 1/64" drill(0.0156"/0.39624mm).
Fig 6 - Deck Lift Handle Being Pinned
The front inner fender walls needed MAJOR modification
to fit properly. Major filing, sanding and re-shaping
had to done to match the shape to fit against the
interior tub and to properly line up with the fender
edge. Sorry, I don't have a picture of the amount of
re-shaping.
These are just a few problems and issues I can remember
having while building this kit.
It was a fun build, I enjoy scratch building. The kit is
marked as a Level 2 kit. I would not recommend this kit
for a beginner...unless the builder is not as anal as I am.