1928 Ford Model 'A' Die Cast



Opening

This is the look I'm shooting for. The die cast body does not have a lot of detail; therefore, I might not be able to do the masking around the windows and the strip along the side of the door where the door handles are mounted. This photo will be replaced with a photo of my finished model when the project is complete.

This is a 1931 Ford Model 'A'; however, the 1928 and 1931 are very similar. This picture came from ClassicCars.com I hope the owner of this picture does not mind that I used it.

Actual 1928 Ford Model 'A' and plan for my build

1 of y

These are all the parts except the chrome tree. (The chrome tree was missing from this box even though the box was still wrapped in plastic wrap. It could be that it was re-wrapped before I bought it? I eventually opened the 1931 version of the kit and took the chrome tree from that kit.)

The box states that there are over 75 realistic pieces; however, even with the chrome tree there are less than 50 pieces.

Kit parts laid out

2 of y

There is a lot of clean up to do on the cast parts. I started with the engine halves and moved to the frame. Using a hobby file set is ok for the small areas, but to get rid of the injection mold marks and larger pieces of flash my Dremel tool with a sanding drum is being used.

Parts cleanup with Dremel tool

3 of y

The engine halves are put together and the one screw that is supposed to hold them together was inserted. After the screw was screwed in and tightened the halves were still not fully closed, so I clamped the halves together and ran some Loctite along the seams. When the Loctite dries I'll use a file to smooth out the joint.

Engine halves clamped together

4 of y

I don't have a before picture of the fan blade, but before removing all the flash and mold marks I couldn't tell that it was a fan. Now at least it looks like a two bladed fan. The head needed a lot of cleanup. The shaft where the fan mounts was too large due to mold lines. Also, I might have to "machine" the head and block to make the head fit flush against it.

Head and fan are cleaned

5 of y

I know I might be repeating myself, and I'm not complaining, but here is the frame with the rear differential and rear axle attached. It can be seen where cleanup is occurring by the shiny areas.

Cleaned up area's show shiny

6 of y

Some of the parts are on sticks and ready for primer to be applied. I will not be priming until all parts are cleaned and rubbed down with #0000 steel wool.

Parts getting ready for primer

7 of y

This is the bottom of the Fender-Frame assembly. There were/are a lot of injector pin marks and molded in text that needed to be removed. This picture shows the text has been removed that was located just above the muffler and tail pipe. There are large injector pin marks in the fender wells. They need to be removed and are going to be difficult because there is not a lot of room, especially to fit a Dremel tool bit.

Cleaning the body half and under the fender wells

8 of y

Another shot of the Fender-Frame assembly showing more injector pin marks and some of the text that is still being removed.

Cleaning the body chassis half and under the fender wels

9 of y

The injector pin marks under the front fenders are huge and again...getting a tool in there to clean them off will be difficult and time consuming. I ended up using the pointed Dremel grinding bit.

Large injector pin marks in the front fender wells

10 of y

Holes need to be drilled in the rear fenders. I'm sure it is to mount the tail lights. I marked the center points and used a center punch to make a dimple. I then drilled a pilot hole with a 1/16" drill bit. The finished hole is then drilled with a 3/32" drill bit. The photo shows the left fender with the pilot hole drilled and the right fender with the center punch dimple.

Rear fenders being drilled

11 of y

All parts that need priming have been primed.

All parts that need priming have been primed

12 of y

More parts that have been primed.

More parts have been primed

13 of y

More parts that have been primed.

More parts that have been primed.

14 of y

The engine has been painted with Tamiya XF-5 Green. In the late 1920's and early 1930's, many of the Model 'A' engines were green. This shows the left side of the engine. Some detail will be painted later. As can be seen, there is still a gap between the head and the block. This is the best I was able to get it while maintaining structural integrity.

Engin and drive shaft have been installed on the frame

15 of y

Another view of the engine.The engine has been painted with Tamiya XF-5 Green. In the late 1920's and early 1930's, many of the Model 'A' engines were green. This shows the right side of the engine. Some detail will be painted later.

Engin and drive shaft have been installed on the frame

16 of y

The frame, rear suspension, axle and wheel hubs are assembled and painted with Tamiya XF-1 Flat Black.

Frame, rear suspension, axle and wheel hubs painted

17 of y

Fender-Frame assembly diagram showing some of the holes that may need to be drilled open. On my Fender-Frame assembly five of the six locations had to be drilled opened using a #42 drill (0.093"). I also had to drill open the radiator mounting hole. The whole was there; however, it was too small to accept the screw. I drilled it open with a #45 drill (0.082"). The next photo shows a better view of the location of these holes.

On the floor pan, where the shifter goes through to the transmission, the floor is marked for where the shifter goes through the floor; however, the hole needs to be drilled. I spotted the center and drilled a pilot hole. I then worked my why up to the final drill size using five different drill sizes. The final hole was drilled with a #1 drill (0.228"). It's important to work up to the final drill size so that the hole remains round and does not start to look like a rounded side triangle. When the floor pan is placed on the frame, the protruding transmission shifter boot should protrude through the floor.

Fender-Frame assembly diagram marking drill locations and size

18 of y

The bottom of the Fender-Frame assembly is painted with Tamiya XF-1 Flat Black. As shown in the previous photo, there are holes that might need to be drilled open. This picture gives a better view as to the location of these holes. There should be a round indentation as to where the hole should be located.

Fender and floor pan are painted and some holes need to be opened

19 of y

The top of the Fender-Frame assembly is painted with Tamiya X-1 Gloss Black. I did not fuse with the floor pan since it won't be seen.

Fender-Frame assembly top painted

20 of y

For some reason, and I don't know why, I had trouble getting paint to properly adhere to the radiator. This photo shows the first attempt. It took three more attempts and it's still looks like crap. As you'll see later, I used Vallejo 77.707 Chrome over a Vallejo 77.660 Gloss Black on the front and sides of the radiator; however, I looks more silver than chrome.

Radiator painting problems

21 of y

The body parts are primed with Vallejo 74.615 USN Light Ghost Grey Surface Primer. This photo is out of sequence since you can see that the radiator is still in primer in this shot.

Body parts primed

22 of y

The engine is mounted in the frame. I added some detail to the left side of the engine. The starter, generator and fan blades are painted with Tamiya X-18 Semi-Gloss Black and the pulleys are painted with Tamiya XF-16 Flat Aluminum.

Engine mounted in frame and left side of engine detailed

23 of y

I added some detail to the right side of the engine. The intake manifold is painted with Tamiya XF-16 Flat Aluminum and the exhaust manifold and pipe are painted with Vallejo 77.723 Exhaust. The spark plugs are painted with Tamiya X-2 White.

Right side of the engine is detailed

24 of y

This photo was taken before the engine mounting screws were painted to show the drive shaft installed. The drive shaft is painted with Vallejo 77.712 Steel. The front suspension is also shown before the screws are painted and before it is mounted to the frame.

Drive shaft installed and front suspension almost ready to install

25 of y

A left side view of the engine and drive shaft installed on the frame. Also shown is the front suspension before being installed into the frame.

Side view of engine with drive shaft installed in the frame

26 of y

Left side view of the Fender-Frame Floor pan installed on the frame. This installation included the radiator, radiator hose, front suspension, luggage carrier, rear bumper and shifter. All these parts need to be installed together because of the way the screws hold them in position.

Left side view of Fender-Frame Floor pan, radiator, radiator hose, front suspension, luggage carrier, rear bumper and shifter installed

27 of y

Right side view of the Fender-Frame Floor pan installed on the frame. This installation included the radiator, radiator hose, front suspension, luggage carrier, rear bumper and shifter. All these parts need to be installed together because of the way the screws hold them in position.

Right side view of Fender-Frame Floor pan, radiator, radiator hose, front suspension, luggage carrier, rear bumper and shifter installed

28 of y

Front view of radiator, front bumper and front suspension installed. The bumper was painted with Vallejo 77.707 Chrome, which looks more silver than chrome. The back side bumper supports are painted with Tamiya XF-1 Flat Black and the bumper strip is painted with Tamiya XF-85 Rubber Black.

Front view of radiator, front bumper and front suspension

29 of y

Rear view of the Fender-Frame, rear bumper and luggage carrier installed. The luggage carrier is at an angle but has been straighted after this photo. The luggage carrier is painted with Tamiya X-1 Gloss Black. The rear bumper is painted with Vallejo 77.707 Chrome and the bumper strip is painted with Tamiya XF-85 Rubber Black.

It's hard to see but the floor mat, peddles and running boards are painted with Tamiya XF-85 Rubber Black.

x

30 of y

The body has been painted with Vallejo 71.084 Fire Red (Rojo Fuego). Vallejo paints dry to a flat finish; therefore, when the paint is thoroughly dry a gloss clear will be applied.

The body was painted with Fire Red

31 of y

The left side of the hood was painted with Vallejo 71.084 Fire Red (Rojo Fuego) and is awaiting a gloss clear coat. The dash board was painted with Tamiya X-1 Gloss Black and the instrument cluster was chromed with a Molotow Chrome pen. The steering wheel was painted with Tamiya X-18 Semi-Gloss Black.

Other side of hood, dash board and steering wheel are painted

32 of y

The wheels and right side of the hood have been painted with Vallejo 71.084 Fire Red (Rojo Fuego). Vallejo paints dry to a flat finish; therefore, when the paint is thoroughly dry a gloss clear will be applied.

Wheels and one side of hood have been painted Fire Red

33 of y

The seats are painted with Tamiya XF-54 Dark Sea Grey and the rear luggage bag was painted with Tamiya X-18 Semi-Gloss Black. The paint is still wet in the photo.

Seats and luggage bag are painted


Skip's Messy Workbench ⇔ All rights reserved ⇔ Copyright © 2023-2024
Skip's Messy Workbench ⇔ Last updated: March 25, 2024

Valid HTML!
Valid CSS!